Use a finger nail polish remover that contains acetone as one of the ingredients listed on the label, but we must caution you that it may also remove any dyes in the fabric of your. We suggest that you try dabbing a small amount of the remover on an area on the fabric that will not show, to test out first. Using a soft cloth, saturate the cemented area and the soft cloth with the polish remover. Dab or blot the area to absorb the cement into the soft cloth. Do not rub the area or it will grind the cement into the fibers of the fabric. Keep changing the soft cloth to a clean area so as not to smear the absorbed cement, until no more cement comes out.

Single Action: Air Supply is regulated via a simple on/off trigger. A separate roller, commonly located at the rear of the airbrush, adjusts paint supply generally. With the roller all the way to the right, the paint is released by just pressing down. This roller allows variable line widths to be selected, by slightly easing to the left. Be careful not to go to far to the left or you will find yourself in double-action.

Double Action: Pressing the trigger regulates the air supply. The further down the trigger is pressed, the more air is expelled. By pulling back on the same trigger, paint is introduced into the air stream. The further back one pulls, the more paint is injected. You may also adjust the flow pattern by slightly easing the roller, at the rear of the airbrush, to the right. You must do this carefully; if you continue all the way to the right, you will find yourself back in single action.

External Mix airbrushes such as the A220 are very good for spraying large quantities of paint, but do not easily lend themselves to small detail work. The A220 is an excellent tool for producing car bodies, large single-colored models, priming, etc. Whereas our external mix A270 (a little more complex/expensive) is quite capable of creating all but the most complex camouflage or what have you, and is still able to provide broad coverage as with the A220.

Internal Mix airbrushes such as the A320, A430 and A470 are all capable of using the same interchangeable nozzles, but the double-action controls of the A430 and A470 allow you to exploit the finer points of airbrushing.

Mix 50% Enamel and 50 % Gloss or Flat Clear.

The Testor Enamels have a shelf-life of 3-5 years if stored properly.

A Filler is a paint or paste that is applied to fill holes or other irregularities in a model prior to painting.

Primers are undercoats, which bind topcoat to substrate.

A Top Coat is the final paint film applied to a surface, also known as a protective coating.

A sealer is a primer, which does not allow succeeding coats to penetrate. It also seals in material that might otherwise bleed through the surface.

Varnish is an un-pigmented binder-solvent solution applied to protect or decorate a surface.

A solvent is the liquid of blend of liquids used to dissolve or disperse a paint.

A Retarder is a solvent added to a paint to slow down its evaporation time.

A “sprue” is a sheet or “tree” that the parts of a model are attached to which helps identify them in the assembly instructions. Generally each sprue is assigned a letter and each part is assigned a number an example would be “A10”. The A identifies the sprue that it is on and 10 identifies the part number. Not all kits contain sprues. The majority of the metal kits that we sell do not have parts on sprues but rather the parts are loose and packaged in plastic bags.

Dry spray is sprayed paint, which loses so much solvent in the air that it becomes too dry to flow over the intended surface. Dry spray has a lower gloss than the normally sprayed surface.

“Fish Eyes” is a paint defect, which manifests itself by crawling off wet paint into a recognized pattern resembling small “dimples” or “fish eyes”.

Wet-Edge Retention is the time after application during which fresh paint has sufficient flow and re-wet ability to permit lapping.

Flash point is the temperature at which the vapor of a thinner or solvent will ignite in the presence of sparks or an open flame. 

Matte is the finish of a surface with minimal reflectance.  A matte finish is the opposite of a gloss finish. 

Orange peel is an irregularity in the surface of a paint film resulting from the inability of the wet film to “level out” after being applied.  Orange peel is caused by the rapid evaporation of the solvents either while the paint is drying or while it is being applied. It becomes more pronounced at higher temps and/or when lower humidity conditions exist. Orange peel can also happen if the aerosol paint can or airbrush is held too far away from the object being painted, when using too much thinner in an airbrush or allowing the model to dry in a spray booth with the exhaust fan on. It is usually only visible on gloss finishes. Once orange peel develops, it is necessary to remove the film and start over.

Peeling is the failure of a paint film to adhere to its substrate.  Peeling results when contaminated surfaces are painted or when there is an excessive difference between paint and surface polarity or thermal expansion characteristics.  

Scale is the term that is given to a model as a measurement against the prototype (the real subject).  The 1 in the equation represents the actual vehicle, aircraft, ship, or any other subject.  The 2^nd number represents the model.  For example; a 1/48 scale model of a P-51 Mustang is only about one quarter the size of the real P-51 Mustang.  Another example is that it would take approximately 48 1/48 scale Mustang models lined up nose to tail to equal the length of the real P-51 Mustang.  The 1 in the equation always represents the real prototype, and the 2^nd number represents the size compared to the prototype of the model.  The smaller the 2^nd number is, the larger the model will be, likewise the higher the second number is, the smaller the model.  A 1/144 scale model of a popular airline aircraft will only have a wingspan of 10-14”, while a 1/72 scale model of the same type of aircraft may have a wingspan of almost two feet or more. 

The popular scales for aircraft, from smallest to largest are as follows:  1/44, 1/72, 1/48, and 1/32.  Car models come in scales such as: 1/43, 1/20, 1/24, and 1/25.  Most ship models are usually 1/720.  Military and historic figures usually come in 1/72, and 1/32.  Railroad models come in 1/220 (Z), 1/160 (N), 1/87 (HO), 1/64 (S), 1/48 (O), and 1/28-1/32 (G).

Our Model Master Guide is stored as zipped pdf files, this makes the files smaller and less prone to corruption while traveling the web.  

To download:  Complete book is not available to download at this time.

1) Download (click on) preferred Chapter.zip to your desktop or preferred folder.

2) Unzip (expand) the pdf file to your desktop or preferred folder.

Note: Some browsers and ISP's will automatically expand zip files. If you do not have these capabilities go to www.winzip.com and download their free Unzip program.

3.Open the pdf document with Adobe Acrobat Reader.

Note: Some browsers and ISP's will open pdf files. If you do not have these capabilities go to www.Adobe.com and download their free Acrobat Reader program.

We do not recommend that the enamel paints be placed in any oven or kiln at any temperatures, due to performance and safety issues, ie; Enamels are considered Flammable/Volatile materials and do have a flash point.  We also do not recommend the baking of the Acrylics, which are certified non-toxic, however they were never designed with the idea of baking in mind and we cannot be held responsible for the outcome. 

To remove the dried enamel film, you may use Polly Scale Easy Lift Off Remover F542143. 

Many modelers have found that this is an effective way of removing the enamel without harming the polystyrene.  Apply the remover and leave it on the effected area until the paint starts to wrinkle.  Using a soft sponge, rub the film under running warm water.  The film will rinse right off. 

A repeat application of the ELO may be necessary depending on thickness of the enamel applications.  However, if the enamel surface has been sanded, it will be much more difficult to remove the paint remover.  Of course, follow the precautions listed on the ELO product label.  You may also use Easy-Off Oven Cleaner, we recommend the Fragrance Free version of the product, in the same procedure listed above.  Once completed, clean the area with a mild dishwashing or laundry detergent and allow to air dry before you touch up the area with paint.  You also can wet sand areas that do not involve clear parts.  Simply apply moisture to the paper and gently rub.  Rinse out grit to keep the paper workable.

We do not have “Fuel Proof “ paint available.

We apologize for any parts that are damaged or missing from your kit.  We can replace them for free; just send us your name, address, contact phone or e-mail address, kit number & the part numbers, description or step that the part is in.  The parts are mailed USPS and usually received within 7-10 business days. 

If you have more that 5 parts missing from your kit, we ask that you send the UPC bar code along with your request.  You can mail,or photo copy the bar code and fax or e-mail. Our Fax no. is 1-800-962-0045, e-mail is customerservice@testors.com

Mail To: The Testor Corp., Attn: Customer Service 440 Blackhawk Park Ave., Rockford, IL 61104 .   

Please send the airbrush BODY ONLY/ or COMPRESSOR. (All other items not covered by the warranty will be returned to you.) 

The Testor Corporation ,ATTN: Customer Service Department, 440 Blackhawk Park Ave.. Rockford, IL 61104. 

Please include a note with your name, address, daytime phone number and a e-mail address if you have one. Also a brief description of the problem you are having with the airbrush/ compressor.  We recommend that it be sent UPS, FedEx or certified mail.  Please note that we will not be responsible to replace items without a tracking number that gets lost in the mail. You should receive your replacement with 7-10 business days once the order is keyed in.  If the airbrush or compressor model is on backorder we will notify you that it may take about 1-2 weeks longer.

All of our production lines are calibrated for 1/4 oz., 1/2 oz., 1 oz. bottles and 3 oz. spray cans.  The only other size that we can make is a 5 gallon bucket.  This can be paint, cement or thinner.  There is a $20.00 packaging fee added to the total.  Customer pays the freight and can only be shipped via FedEx Ground.  There will be a lead time of 3-4 weeks. You can call Customer Service to get a price for the 5 gallon bucket.

We have 2 catalogs available, the Model Kit for $2.00 and the Finishing Catalog for $5.00 which contains our paints, glues, airbrushes,compressors, modeling tools and colorcharts.  You can place your order over the phone with a major credit card at 1-800-962-6654 or mail a check or money order to our mailing address,  The Testor Corp., Attn: Customer Service 440 Blackhawk Park Ave., Rockford, IL 61104.

We also have a free information packet that contains a price list of the items we have available.  You can contact Customer Service to have one mailed or e-mailed to you.

The item you are looking for is probably a raw material and not a finished good.  Only the finished goods are on the webiste.  You can contact Customer Service to order the part.

AZTEK AIRBRUSHES:  Airbrushes A320 A430  A470  A480,  Airbrush kits 270 A3205 A4305 A4308 A4709 A7778 A4702 A4809 9174

 DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE AIRBUSH TO CLEAN IT.  DO NOT DISASSEMBLE TO FIX ANY PROBLEMS.  TAKING THE AIRBRUSH APART WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.

 Cleaning Fluids:

All Aztek nozzles, paint cups and the front and sides of most airbrush bodies are resistant to all common solvents including: ACETONE, MEK, MEBK, TOLUENE LAQUER THINNER, ECT.

These solvents can be used to clean dried and wet paint without damaging the airbrush. Soaking the nozzles in containers of thinner or clear Windex ( no vinegar)is an effective way to clean them. The nozzles will not swell or grow. Though they may squeak when they are very clean.  Shaking the closed container a couple of times will help loosen the dried paint.  You can soak the nozzles and paint cups over night.

Do not soak the A270 airbrush nozzles, it will damage the "O" ring inside rendering the nozzles unusable.

If you choose to use other manufactures paint through an Aztek airbrush, we suggest you find a cleaner strong enough to dissolve the dried paint before you start. We cannot be held responsible for damages to the airbrush body, due to improper cleaning of the airbrush and components.  If using other paints you may need to contact the manufacturers of the paints to find a cleaning & thinning for their paints

 DO NOT IMMERSE THE AIRBRUSH BODY  IN ANY THINNERS OR CLEANERS.

Soaking the airbrush in solvents may damage some internal components.

Do not stick foreign objects into the front of your airbrush there are seals that need to be maintained.  Clean the front end of the airbrush with the cleaning tool wrench only.   Do not disassemble the needle from the nozzle. In most cases it will not reassemble and will not work.

CLEANING 

Set the airbrush to max spray and spray all old paint into a cleaning station or (on a scrap of paper.)  Set the airbrush to max spray. Use cleaners recommended for the paint that you were spraying.  Pour cleaners into airbrush using a bottle or color cup and spray into the airbrush cleaning station, until the spray is clear. 

Do not force solvent into airbrush. If there is low to no flow from the airbrush check the nozzle tip for dried paint. If there is, you can remove the nozzle and soak it or you can take a coarse paint bush dipped in solvent and try scrubbing the dried paint off the tip. When finished you can try to spray through solvent.  After spraying solvent, follow with water.  When clean, the airbrush is ready for storage or the next color.  If further cleaning is needed, soak only nozzle in solvent. 

DO NOT SOAK THE AIRBRUSH.

To clean color cups and bottles, disassemble into parts – cap, inner & base etc.  Soak in cleaner.  Rinse in water and re-assemble.

Quick cleaning with gravity feed cups.

Spray out old paint.  Add cleaner to cup.  Using a soft bristle, mix the solvent and remaining old paint in the cup. Spray out cup contents. Repeat until you feel the brush is clean.

 Nozzle Housing Cleaning

The cleaning tool will remove media deposits left in the airbrush body, which may restrict the flow of paint or air.  These deposits may not be removed with regular blow-through cleaning.  The cleaning tool is designed specifically for the airbrush body nozzle housing and cup ports.  It is not for use with the color cups or nozzles.  Insert reamer end into housing.  Push gently and rotate 360 degrees and remove.

Blow out any clumps of paint, which may have come free.

 Paint cup port cleaning

Remove blanking plug from port.  If tight, use the long bar of the cleaning tool to push it out.  Insert short bar, rotate and remove.  Clean reamer and repeat.

Always remember to replace your blanking plug after cleaning.

 Build up of paint on the needle

One of the most common problems is paint builds up on the needle or damage to the needle. This can cause air to blow back into the paint, stopping any spray.  Acryl paint dries far faster than enamel paints. This makes them far more likely to build up on the needle & tip.

When using an airbrush, paint will dry faster than normal because of the added airflow through the nozzle. This means that even if you stop for a few minutes, you may need to clean out the nozzle tip.  If you don't run cleaning or thinning through the airbrush, the paint may dry on the tip of your nozzle. This may result in the nozzle or body becoming clogged. Always try to clean your airbrush as soon as you finish spraying. Aztek makes nozzles that are designed to decrease the amount of paint accumulation on tip of the nozzle.  This will not totally prevent the paint from drying inside the nozzle. Always use an appropriate cleaner before the paint is fully dry.  Soap and water will not remove dried acrylic paint film.  Use solvent when soaking your nozzles.  If using oil-based enamel paint, use enamel thinners.

No,  we are not liscensed to ship individual orders or hazerdous items outside the United States.  You can contact our Distributor, International HobbyCraft Hobby-Exporter International Distributor - International HobbyCraft’s website at  www.hobby-exporter.com.  Click on the button at the top of the page labeled "SUPPLIERS REPRESENTED", to see a complete list of the manufacturers represented by INTERNATIONAL HOBBYCRAFT, together with a list of each of their International Distributors.  For addtional assistance you can contact Customer Service and they will be able to refer you to who can place your order.  Contact Andrea Valouskova  e-mail csr@hobby-exporter.com 

We do not ship Canadian individual orders because of Canada's strict labeling requirements & additional fees to bring the order across the border. You can check in the yellow pages of your telephone book under Hobby, Craft, or Hardware Stores to locate a retail store in your area.  We are in the process of updating our contacts for Canada and will post it on the web site when completed. For futher assistance to locate a retailer in your area you can also contact our Sale Rep. Jack Ward @TOY-SPORT AGENCIES LTD at Jward@toy-sport.com

All of Testors brand products, including Testor paints, cements and model kits comply with the product lead content limits of the standards and rules promulgated by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and the EN 71 European standards. Testor products are formulated to be  “lead free”  for the safety of all our customers.

This item was discontinued in 2001.  Micro Mark has a similar product that you can find more information on at www.micromark.com or call 1-908-464-2985.

We no longer manufacture or distribute these products.  For assistance in locating the items, you can contact Midwest Products Inc. at 1-800-348-3497,  address - 400 S. Indian St., Hobart, IN 46342.

 Air brush will not spray 

• The nozzle is not in tight enough and air is leaking into the paint line. Use the cleaning wrench; tighten hand tight and another ¼ turn with the nozzle wrench. 
• The needle tip is bent. Replace with a new nozzle.
• The nozzle is clogged with dried paint. Remove and wash.
• Is the paint thin enough?  Try cleaning out all passageways of the airbrush and paint cup and thin the paint to the consistency of whole milk.
• Check the compressor power, are you getting enough compressed air?  If it's less than 18-20 psi, the airbrush may not spray even enamels properly.  If you don't know the pressure, you can add a regulator to gauge your pressure.
• Check to see if the propellant or compressor has been turned on. Is air coming out of the nozzle when the trigger is depressed?
• Pressure in your canister of propellant may have dropped, try placing your can in a bowl with room temperature water to maintain a constant pressure and keep the can from freezing up.
• Check airline for kinks,
• Check that there is a blanking plug in the unused port
• Check for paint in paint cup
• Remove Paint Cup and Blanking Plug and clean between ports.
• Install new nozzle and thoroughly clean old one.

Air bubbles in paint jar

• The nozzle is not in tight enough; air is leaking into the paint line.  Use the cleaning wrench to re-tighten the nozzle.
• Paint buildup on the needle causes air to blow back into nozzle, clean the nozzle tip or replace (see cleaning instruction).
• The needle tip is bent, cannot be fixed. Replace nozzle.

Intermittent spray

•  Nozzle may not be tight enough, air is getting into the paint line and air is being sprayed. Re-tighten nozzle.
• Build up on the needle is interrupting the spray (common with Acrylic paints).  Thin the paint, reduce the air pressure and re-clean the nozzles.
• Nozzle may be damaged. Closely inspect it for bent needles and cracks (do not disassemble), try a new nozzle.

Paint spits in line

•  Nozzle needs cleaning, re-clean nozzle and air cap. Paint may be building up on the side walls
• Make sure that the paint and nozzle type match.
• Check consistency of media, re-mix if necessary.  Poorly mixed or lumpy paint goes through an  airbrush at irregular speed.
• Moisture may be coming from compressor; you may need a moisture trap.
• Nozzles maybe damaged, replace if necessary.

Paint sprays continually

• Roller is too far open, adjust roller setting to loosen trigger.
• Nozzle needs cleaning, or it could be damaged.  Removing the needle & spring can stretch, this causes the nozzle not to shut out.
• May have internal airbrush issues, will need to be returned to Testors for testing. 

 Spider spray Patten

• Air pressure is too great for paint and nozzle, lower psi.
• Paint is too thin for selected pressure and nozzle.
• Wrong nozzle for paint and pressure setting, try another nozzle.
• Airbrush is too close to the surface being sprayed.

Reverse Flow

• The “Reverse Flow” or “Back Flow” method is common for most other brands of airbrushes, however it should not be used with any of the Aztek Airbrushes. Please do not use this method; the paint should never be forced to flow through the airbrush body. Over time paint may build up on the control mechanism and cause it to fail.  The only parts that need to be cleaned are the nozzles and the nozzle housing.

If the airbrush still doesn't work you can contact Customer Service for assistance or return the airbrush for evaluation. ( See instructions on returning airbrush).

"Cancer warning" on the bottles of enamel paint are due to the presence of an extremely small percentage of a solvent called Toluene.  It is not put into the paint as a component during manufacturing, but may possibly be present in a very small amount in one of the raw materials that goes into the paint (i.e. much less than 1 %).

Since California has a statute ("Proposition 65") that requires this specific warning statement on any consumer product containing Toluene, it has been the advice of Testor's legal department (and many other paints manufactures), to include the warning statement, even though the amount present  (if at all) in the final paint is very, very small.

In addition, Toluene is a volatile solvent, and any amount present evaporates when the paint dries, and therefore would not be present in the dried paint.

 Testors Acryl water-based paints are less toxic than the enamels in its wet state.  In fact, it is independently certified as non-toxic as packaged.

 In addition, all of Testor's water-based and solvent-based paints are completely lead and heavy metals free, and have been for over 40 years. 

Thinners cleaners and solvents for Testor, Model Master, Pactra, and Floquil paints. 

Acrylics. 

The basic thinner for acrylics is water.  There are many other thinners that are offered.  These can all be used when the paint is wet, (see list below). When cleaning wet paint from an airbrush, use one of the acrylic formulas listed below. If Acrylic paint dries on or in your airbrush use one of the cleaners to remove the dried paint. 

Acryl Thinners.

Modal Master Acryl 50496 4oz Detail & fine line thinner

Pactra RC5800 1 oz

Pactra RC aircraft 5900 1 oz

Polly scale 546008 Air Brush Thinner 8 oz

Polly scale 556008 Air Brush Thinner 8 oz

Testor 1398 Thinner 1 oz

Testor 1399 Cleaner 1 oz

Acryl wet Acryl Cleaners.

Model Master 50497 Acryl Cleaner 4 oz

Aztek 65160-4 Air Brush Cleaner 4 oz

Aztek 65162-32 Air brush cleaner 32 oz

Dried Paint Solvents.

Model Master 50495 Dried Paint Solvent 1-3/4 oz

Polly scale 542142 ELO paint Remover 2 oz

 Enamel. 

All enamel thinners are usable with other enamel paints. Model Master and Testor Polly Scale are all interchangeable.  When cleaning wet paint from the airbrush use thinner. To remove the dried paint use enamel thinner or lacquer thinner.

 Enamel thinner and wet cleaners: -

Testor 8824 Airbrush thinner ½ oz

Testor 8825 Airbrush thinner 1-3/4 oz

Model Master 1156 Thinner 1-3/4 oz

Model Master 1799 Thinner ½ pint

Model Master 1789 Airbrush thinner 1-3/4 oz

Floquil 12001 Thinner airbrush cleaner 2 oz

Floquil 15001 Thinner airbrush cleaner 16 oz

Floquil 151611 Airbrush cleaner 16oz

 Lacquer thinner.

There are three types of lacquer thinner in the Tester line of products Model Master Metalizer, Model Master Lacquer and Pactra RC.  The thinners for these products should not be intermixed.  If too much of the wrong thinner is added to the paint, the paint may separate and form non-sprayable goo.  When cleaning always use the formula made for that brand. Dry paint can be removed with any lacquer thinner.

Lacquer thinners & cleaners use

Model Master auto lacquer

Model Master 28016   Thinner ½ oz

Model Master lacquer

Model Master 2018 lacquer thinner 1oz

Metalizer

Metalizer 1419 Metalizer lacquer thinner 13/4 oz

Pactra RC

Pactra RC 75 Thinner 3 ½ oz

Pactra RC 95 Thinner ½ pint

AIRBRUSH THINNING RATIOS:

In general when spraying paints through Aztek airbrushes, the paint should be the consistency of whole milk or thinner.

Never add thinner to the paint jar.  If the paint is over thinned, the paint cannot be thickened.

Do not to over thin flat Enamels, as they can turn to a gloss if over thinned

Fine detail airbrushing requires practice and varies greatly with the equipment and air pressure being used.  Experiment on scrap material before you begin painting an actual project.

NOTE: the numbers listed below are only a guide and may vary from color to color.

 MODEL MASTER TESTOR ENAMEL PAINT:

Gloss; 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner.

Flat; 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner,  

Air pressure setting should be around 20-25 PSI.  

Enamels require 48 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all Enamel solvents

MODEL MASTER TESTOR ACRYLIC: 

Most Model Master and Testor "Acrylic" paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing. Thin paint by adding thinner drop by drop, until your consistency has been achieved. 

Air pressure should be approximately 18-20 PSI. 

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all Acryl thinners

 Metalizer

Model Master Metalizer is pre-thinned for spraying and will not need thinning.

Air presser should be around 18-20 psi

Metalizer will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

Thinner: - 1419 Metalizer thinner

 Model Master Auto lacquer

Model Master Auto lacquer is not thinned to spray add 2 parts thinner to 3 parts paint increase drop by drop.

Air pressure setting should be approximately 20-25 PSI. Too much high-pressure air will cause cob webbing.

Auto Lacquers will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

Thinner: - 28016 Thinner only

 RACING FINISH PAINTS LEXAN BODIES LACQUERS

Mix 9 Parts paint to 1 part thinner. 

You may adjust this ratio to your own preference.

Dry time is 5-10 minutes between coats.  Full cure is 24 hours

If you achieve a "Cloudy" appearance on the clear Lexan, you may be using too much or too strong of a thinner for these paints. 

Thinner: - RC75 or RC95 Lacquer Thinner only

 RACING FINISH PAINTS LEXAN BODIES ACRYLIC 

Pactra RC Acrylic Lacquer paints are pre-thinned and airbrush ready. 

If desired, thin no more than 10% with thinner.

Air pressure should be around 18-20 psi. 

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

If you achieve a "Cloudy" appearance on the clear Lexan, you may be using too much or too strong of a thinner for these paints. 

Thinner: - RC5800 Thinner only

Pactra R/C aircraft colors

Pactra R/C aircraft paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing.  Add thinner drop by drop until paint meets your desired consistency. 

Air pressure should be around 18-20 psi. 

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all Acryl thinners

 Floquil Polly Scale Acrylics,

Acrylics are pre-thinned for airbrushing and may be thinned further with water. 

Air pressure should be 16-18 psi.

Acrylics will dry to the touch in minutes; they require 24 hours for a full cure

Thinner: - all Acryl thinners.

 Floquil ENAMELS: 

Flat colors: - mix 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner.  Do not over thin your flats, as they can turn to gloss.

Gloss colors: - mix 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner. 

PSI should be 21-25 psi. 

Enamels require 48 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all Enamel solvents

 Testor Enamels:

Gloss; 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner.

Flat; 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner.

Air pressure will need to be sprayed approximately 21-25 psi

Enamels require 48 hours for a full cure.

Thinner: - all enamel thinners 

When using Testor Enamels or Model Master Enamels we suggest Testor No. 1148 or No. 1156 Thinner/Brush Cleaner. See question no.39 on "Paint Thinning "for additonal information for paint clean up.

We are not licensed to ship outside the US., we process our International orders through our Distributors.You can contact our International Distributor - International HobbyCraft’s website at  www.hobby-exporter.com.

Click on the button at the top of the page labeled "SUPPLIERS REPRESENTED", to see a complete list of the manufacturers represented by INTERNATIONAL HOBBYCRAFT, together with a list of each of their International Distributors.

Our P.O. Box 5009 was closed in error and has been re-opened.  We apologize that any warranty or survey cards were returned to you. You can send your information on the card to our e-mail address for Customer Service at customerservice@testors.com .

British Standard Colour Confersion Table

http://www.figuras.miniatures.de/colour-british-standard.html

http://www.paint4models.com/paintchart/paintconversionchart.html# http://www.paint4models.com